Number Ten - La Cucina e Bar review

This is a review for Number Ten, a resturant on O'Connell St, North Adelaide. It was formely Adelaide institution Cibo Ristorante and #10 La Cucina e Bar. Since this visit I have returned several times and updated reviews will be posted here and at the original site shortly.

Published May 2007 on www.webmenu.com.au

Bring your expectations from the old Cibo restaurant and you might be disappointed. Unfortunately it seems that this restaurant is still finding its feet and its own style after adopting a significant part of the old menu. I have visited this place twice in recent weeks in the hope to see such a transformation take place; whilst the pizzas maintain the authenticity of the old restaurant, and indeed compare well with those I have tasted in Rome, the meat dishes from the main menu seem to lack confidence and the robust flavors that you would expect from a good Italian restaurant.

The exception to this would be the soup that I ordered on my first visit. The special of the day, it was a delicious thick pumpkin and basil topped with honey mascarpone – absolutely divine, and full of flavor. Full marks here. I could barely eat my main course, but that proved not much of a problem as the The Galleto alla Diavola that followed, a whole chicken simply flavoured with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, sage & thyme. It was pretty underwhelming, lacking softness in the meat and any delicious juices to meld the flavours together. A disappointment considering the luxury and prospect of a succulent whole bird.

The Pancia di maiale con mella balsamica (crispy skin pork belly) was beautifully presented without a doubt, with a tiny, glazed apple on one side and the sweet potato puree in a little – perhaps too little - mound on the other. But the promised crispy skin was somewhat soggy by the time it reached me (disappointing, as it is the delicious element of the dish. The pork lacked the necessary salt to bring out the flavor of the meat, which was presented in two wedges arranged in the middle of the plate. Overall I’d expect a little more, and a little more attention to the basic requirements – salt and crispiness - for my $29.90.

As an aside, a lack of crispness was also the issue with a salt and pepper squid entrée, which, while tasty, once again focused on a beautiful presentation rather than the two essential elements of flavor and texture true to the nature of the dish. The aeoli presented with it had very little flavor at all. On the other hand, the little rocket salad that came with the dish was exquisite, perfectly dressed in olive oil and salt.

For what the restaurant currently lacks in gastronomic potency it could just about make up with their service. Clearly quality staff have been sought after (as a regular patron of the previous establishment I didn’t notice any wait staff that survived the transition) and our waiter was gracious, speedy and attentive. A charming, accented man, he immediately wished my mum ‘Happy Mothers Day’ on arrival, managed to communicate well with the kitchen about her egg allergy, and presented her with a single tulip at the end of the meal to the bemusement of my family.

No doubt the culinary memories of Adelaideans will continue, for a time, to draw bookings, but the hit and miss menu has disappointed this gastronome for now. I look forward to seeing the development of the restaurant into a true local identity of its own, as it has more than enough potential to become another must eat Adelaide restaurant.